Tips & Resources

Our tips section is here to help you create beautiful landscapes for your home. You can find tips on a variety of sustainable lawn and gardening topics from eliminating weeds naturally, to tips on controlling mold in your mulch. Have additional questions that are not answered in your tips sections? Please refer to our Ask the Expert section where an experienced member of our staff will be more then happy to give you some sound advice.

Do-it-yourself Organic Fertilization and Natural Weed Control

Fertilizing Organically

Unlike chemical based fertilizers that ruin your lawns natural soil structure, the foundation of the Good Nature Turf System is a soil feeding fertilizer. The fertilizer will encourage healthy turf and soil which discourages weed growth and creates a thick lush healthy lawn. The spring and fall blend fertilizers contain some corn gluten to help suppress weed control, but If weeds are a major problem, we recommend either plucking them with a handy dandy "Speedy Weedy" or spot spraying them with Natural Feed & Weed. Here are some of the main differences between organic and chemical fertilizers.

1. Organic fertilizer:

* is a slow-release fertilizer without the hazards of over-fertilizing or root damage problems.
* doesn't work as quickly as chemical fertilizers, but improves the quality of the soil over the growing season.
* doesn't introduce toxic chemicals into the soil, which is then washed out by the rain and leaked into the water system.
* helps to maintain organic soil structures, and retains naturally occurring bacteria, fungi, and micro-organisms.
* produces food that is higher in nutrients – vitamins and minerals – and retains its natural flavor.

2. Synthetic (chemical) fertilizer:

* has a destructive action on soil.
* works quickly but can burn out roots.
* ruins the natural soil structure.
* is absorbed into the food and then into animals and humans.
* requires careful handling using gloves, breathing filters, which is a clue as to how dangerous it is.

Fertilizer Application Schedule:

April- Good Nature Spring Blend ( 9-2-1 ) @ 10 lbs / 1000
Late May- Good Nature Spring Blend ( 9-2-1 ) @ 8-10 lbs / 1000
Early September- Good Nature Fall Blend ( 10-2-8 ) @ 8-10 lbs / 1000
Late November- Good Nature Fall Blend ( 10-2-8 ) @ 5-8 lbs / 1000

50lb Bag (Covers 5,000 - 10,000 s.f.)

Natural Weed Control

Corn gluten pre-emergent is an all natural weed inhibitor. Discovered by accident at Iowa Sate University in the 1980's researchers found there is a natural substance in corn gluten meal (a by product of wet milling corn and not a food source) that inhibits seed germination. Applied at a rate of 20lbs per 1,000 sq. feet corn gluten meal has shown to effectively stop the germination of weed seeds (grass seeds too). Best applied in spring and fall when weeds can germinate- but can be applied at anytime of the year. Corn gluten meal is also a good organic fertilizer (9-0-0).

Pre-Emergent Application Schedule:

Spring- Pre-emergent @ 20lbs per 1,000 sq. feet.
Fall- Pre-emergent @ 20lbs per 1,000 sq. feet.

Eliminate Weeds-Naturally

Almost everyday customers come in and ask, "How do I get rid of weeds?" Many customers come in looking for Round Up or some other chemical-based product. With a little education, we point out that there are many organic alternatives that work just as well.

Maintenance

Mow High- 3"-4" in the summer if possible. Higher grass will actually shade out weed seeds preventing them from germinating.

Water Properly- We suggest providing 1" of water per week in two sessions( less request and deeper watering is the general rule of thumb). Watering helps the grass by keeping it growing during the summer when it wants to go dormant which then gives the weeds a chance to thrive.

Over seeding- Over seeding with more modern grasses is another way to prevent weeds by having better grass types out compete the weeds.

Pesky Insects- Preventing insect damage naturally with milky spore or nematodes can help prevent weeds. Studies at Ohio State have shown that lawns weakened by insect damage are more prone to weeds later on.

Aeration- Lawns with excessive thatch( 1/2" or more) can lead to insects and weeds in the future.

Products

Burn Out
Bun Out is a natural, fast acting weed and grass killer. Made mainly of clove oil and vinegar, it is as potent as other chemical-derived products. Recommended for use on all weeds, in areas where grass should not grow, in between cracks in your driveway and in many other areas. Burnout works on annuals immediately but perennials may require an additional treatment. Burnout is available in various ready-to-use and concentrated formulas.

Speedy Weedy
The Speedy Weedy tool is the fastest and easiest way to remove the most stubborn weeds right from the root. The Speedy Weedy eliminates chemicals, bending over and prevents dirty hands. It promotes healthy exercise by making you walk around your yard!

Pre Merge Weed Control
Pre Merge is an all natural, granulated weed control. Pre Merge actually works by preventing weed seeds from germination. It is made from corn gluten protein meal crumbles. It can be used for controlling new weed growth in lawns, flower beds, or anywhere in landscapes where weeds are not wanted. Pre-Merge works great on crabgrass and dandelions. It is not recommended to use in areas with new seedlings. Pre Merge can be applied throughout the season for maximum weed control. Available in 6 lb.. and 50 lb. bags.

Nature's Feed & Weed
Nature's Feed & Weed is a natural liquid fertilizer that does not actually kill the weeds themselves but helps thicken your lawn to encourage grass growth. This action actually inhibits weed growth. Nature's Feed & Weed can be used all summer long and works great for spot weeding. Available in a 1 gallon concentrated formula.

Spot Seeding Steps

Are your bare spots bugging you? Spring is a great time to spot seed your lawn. If you have a lot of bare spots it might be best to wait until fall (the best planting time) and slice seed your entire lawn. Follow these simple steps to cover up those spots.

1. Identify the spots and loosed up the soil slightly with a rake.

2. Scatter your seed: the sloppier you are, the more evenly distributed they seem to fall. A hand spreader will work as well.

3. Use the back side of a wire rake to gently blend and smooth the area. The goal is to ensure maximum soil / seed contact.

4. Mulch the area with some compost, only enough to cover about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Sweet Peet and Technagro are great compost that help your grass seed germinate faster.

5. Firm the area gently to smooth finish. It is a good idea to throw down a light layer of straw. This is to keep rainfall from washing away all your seed.

6. Timing: Don't spread if you have recently applied natural pre-emergent weed control. This will keep the seeds from germinating.

Mold in Your Mulch?

Mulch enhances the landscapes around your home. It adds a clean and finished look and also provides nutrient value as it retains moisture to the soil for trees and plants to flourish. However, we have found that a little mulch maintenance will prevent unattractive matter from growing in various areas. Mold is the most common issue that homeowners complain about each season after they apply their mulch around their beds. Mold typically forms when there is an excessive amount of moisture in sunny areas or in shaded areas that receive little to no exposure to the sun. Mold simply forms in decomposing, wood-based mulch where there is a lack of oxygen.

How do I remove mold from my mulch?

-Simply remove mold with a shovel and discard.

How do I prevent mold from occurring?

-The most effective preventative measure is to allow air to circulate throughout the mulch. Use a shovel or rake and rotate the mulch by shifting it around and flipping it over around the beds, especially in areas where there is excessive amounts of moisture. This step allows air to flow throughout the material where it lacks oxygen and may lead to mold growth.
-You should also never lay mulch thicker then 2 - 3 inches. Laying mulch thick will promote mold growth from decomposing layers underneath. If you have too much mulch when laying new mulch in the spring, rake up a layer of the old decomposing mulch before putting down.

How often should I move my mulch around?

-Based on our experience, every 6-8 weeks or approximately 3 to 4 times per season starting from the date of application. Old mulch from the previous season requires more frequent shifting every 4 weeks due to its age and decomposition.

Are there any products I can purchase that will stop mold from growing?

-There are no effective products on the market that actually "prevent mold from growing" in mulch. Only good "old fashioned" labor will help in preventing mold growth.

-Sweet Peet is an alternative to regular wood mulches that will keep you from getting mold in your beds. It is a 100% organic mulch comprised of composted matter and virgin wood fibers that breaks down over a shorter period of time and creates essential nutrients for your soil.

Is your home invaded by black spots?

As a kid growing up, we lived in a colonial-style home covered with white aluminum siding. I remember playing around the house and noticing these black spots around the lower part of the white aluminum siding. As a 5 year old kid, I would try to pick these spots off but never had any luck. They were located directly above the flower beds, covered in black mulch. I remember seeing more spots on the back of our house which faced west. I often wondered, "How did these spots get there?"

Years later, I finally figured out the origins of these mysterious black spots because several customers were coming to us with frustration on how these spots appeared on their homes and cars. Well, they are directly related to the type of mulch used in flower beds. These tiny spots are typically known as "Artillery fungus" or "shotgun fungus." As light reflects on the wood-based mulch, mold spores form tiny spots and literally "jump" out of the mulch and onto light colored objects, such as the side of a home or light-colored automobiles. So how do you remove these spots from the side of your home or cars? Well, there are some cases where high pressure washers will remove them or by using various types of chemicals but let me ask you, do you really want chemicals washing into your landscapes? Hopefully not. the best solution is using a scrub brush and a high pressure washer.

The next step is to face the source of the spots- the wood-based mulch. Finally, years later after he started Royalton Supply, we found a solution to eliminate the spots. After testing all of our wood-based mulches, we found that Sweet Peet mulch was the most effective in not developing shotgun fungus on light-colored objects. Sweet Peet lacks the high amounts of composted wood which is considered the ideal source for this type of fungus to occur. We found in particular that aged mulch (over a year old), regardless of the wood type, promoted shotgun fungus more regularly than newer mulch. In addition, we removed all of the original material from the beds before we applied Sweet Peet.

The staff at Royalton Supply hopes this article answers questions about shotgun fungus. Please note: based on our personal experience, shot gun fungus did not occur in Sweet Peet. We do not in any way, guarantee that Sweet Peet is the ultimate solution to preventing shotgun fungus, and will not be held liable in any way if you decide to try it yourself and do not experience similar results.

The article was written as an informational tool based on personal experiences and we feel that by sharing this information, we can educate Royalton Supply customers and offer suggestions to similar issues. If you have additional questions or concerns, please contact us and we'll be glad to assist you.

Lawn Installation Tips

A-1 Landscape & Design, a premier landscaping company in the Greater Cleveland area has given us his expert advice on how to install a new lawn in 7 easy step-by-step instructions.

1. Spray the lawn with Burnout Weed and Grass Killer, preferably during the day when sunny. Repeat if necessary.

2. Strip and dispose of the dead sod using a sod cutter, or roto-tiller. If using a roto-tiller be sure to till at a depth of only 2” to insure that only the dead sod is removed.

3. To grade the yard, use the sod cutter or roto-tiller to loosen the high areas. The area should be leveled with a wide grading rake; the wider the better. Then compact with a lawn roller. Do not roto-till the entire yard. This will only bury some of the remaining topsoil, and bring any dormant undesirable seeds to the surface that would otherwise not germinate.

4.Top dress the entire lawn with organically enriched topsoil. The topsoil should be applied at a rate of 1 cubic yard per 300 square feet. Do not compact this layer with the lawn roller unless the yard has a steep pitch. Leaving this layer loose allows for rapid initial water absorption, and easier root growth.

5. Next apply seed. Be sure to select the appropriate blend based on the lighting conditions of your yard. Ideally, use a drop spreader in two different directions.

Use of a broadcast spreader can unevenly distribute the different varieties of seeds in the blend (the lighter seeds won't be thrown as far as the heavier seeds). The rate of application is usually indicated on the packaging of seed, and can vary based on blends of species.

6. Finally, cover the seed with a ¼” layer of Sweet Peet to retain moisture.

7. Watering should take place in the morning and evening. The Sweet Peet will indicate ample moisture by retaining a dark brown color. Be sure to water slowly, rapid watering can cause displacement of the seeds. Only skip watering if it has rained.

To receive a full lawn installation estimate or for any other projects call,

Tom Colburn

A 1 Landscape & Design

440-341-2569

13566 Settlement Acres Drive

Brook Park, OH. 44142

A1landscapellc@yahoo.com

How to Lay a Flagstone Walkway

Here at Royalton Supply we carry all the supplies you will need to put in your own natural stone path or walkway. Here is a list of supplies you will need, and easy steps to help you with your project.

Items we carry that you will need (Paver Base, Concrete Sand, Screening, Flag Stone or Brick Pavers, Snap Edging, Spikes, Weed Fabric, Gator Dust).

1. Choose the type of stone you would like to use

We carry natural flagstone and brick pavers that work great for stone paths or walkways.

2. Choose the path that your stone walkway will take

You will need to determine whether the path is curved or straight. Mark the area with string on both sides tying it on steaks if the pathway is straight. For curved pathways lay a hose on the ground on both sides, spraying white paint along the edges is optional.

3. Decide how wide you want your walkway

You will want to make a pathway wide enough so that two people can walk side-by-side, about 3 ft. Measure 3 ft over from your first stake, mark the spot, and repeat the process of running the string from end to end.

4. Cutting the soil

Plunge the spade down 5”-6” deep along the course you’ve plotted out. Then switching to a digging shovel, excavate all that sod and soil. You’ll want to end up with a base as even and flat as possible. Moisten the soil in the excavated area with a garden hose and tamp it down with a tamping tool.

5. Laying landscape fabric

Lay landscape fabric down over the base you’ve just established for your stone walkway to suppress potential weeds.

6. Laying your base

Shovel 2”-4” of paver base over the landscape fabric. Tamp the paver base down with a tamping tool. Then lay 1”-2” of concrete sand or limestone screenings down over the paver base. Make sure both bases are as level as possible. (Snap edging is optional)

7. Laying the stone

Beginning at one end, place some of your rocks down firmly on the sand base. Keep the gaps between rocks as small as possible. Continue laying the rocks out along the projected path. The first alignment will be temporary. Lay out the majority of the rocks, using your largest pieces and focusing on the middle of the path. Now walk down the path way to test it out. After making the necessary adjustments in the positioning of your larger rocks, start plugging the gaps with your smaller pieces.

8. Filling the gaps

When you are through laying rock, you have a few options for filling in the gaps between your stone. Sand, Pea Gravel, or Gator Dust are three products we carry that may work for you. We recommend using Gator Dust for ultimate prevention of weeds, ant hills, and joint erosion. Sweep in the filling agent you decide to use and lightly mist the walkway, this will clean the stones and further compact the sand in the remaining gaps.

You are finished! Now step back and enjoy.

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Winter Mulching

After the ground freezes and plants are dormant winter mulching helps insulate the soil and prevent plant injury. Alternate thawing and freezing of unmulched soil as temperatures warm during the day and drop at night may cause frost heaving in the spring. Freezing and thawing occurs mainly in the fall and spring, and in the fall it may keep perennials from hardening properly or cause injury to unhardened plants. Mulch helps evergreen shrubs go into winter with more moisture, so less damage will occur from drying out come spring.

-Apply winter mulch around the bast of perennials and shrubs in late fall after first frost, remove in early spring.

-Apply 2-4 inches around plants. Don't mulch to close to stem to avoid rodents, mold, and disease.

-Hardwood Bark Mulch, Sweet Peet, or Wood Chips are great for winter mulching.

Winter Lawn Care

Fall is a great time to give your lawn that extra boost it needs to make it through the winter months and ensure your lawn is green and healthy in the spring. Here are some helpful tips we recommend you follow for for winter lawn maintenance and preparation.

1. Raking- Before winter arrives, make sure that your lawn is completely free of dead leaves rocks, logs and other debris. Some leaves on the lawn are ok but leaving too many leaves on your lawn keeps light and air out and can actually smoother your lawn.

2.Mowing- Once your grass becomes dormant, you can lower your cutting height to two inches for cool-season grasses. Leaving your lawn longer than two inches may trap moisture and promote mold growth.

3. Dormant Seeding- Many people don't realize that the best time to plant grass is in the fall. Fall produces cooler temperatures, more moisture, and less annual weeds. Dormant seeding can event be done after we have had a couple good frost. The grass will lie dormant all winter long and then come up in the spring. As we go through winter the ground freezes and thaws this helps to pull the seed into the soil. When spring comes your grass will have a head start because it was already planted. It is recommended to use 20% more seed then usual when doing dormant seedlings due to severely cold temperatures damaging some of the seed.

4. Fertilization- During this time of year your lawn uses the most energy to grow a dense root system. To help stimulate this root growth through the fall we recommend applying an organic fertilizer. Due to the ground being wet the nutrients from the fertilizer are able to be soaked into the soil easier from the freezing and thawing process. This process will give you a healthier lawn in the spring. Your last fall fertilization application can be all the way up until late November.

5.Composting- By applying a thin layer of compost over yours lawns now, the lusher and greener your lawns will be in the spring. Compost dressing is wonderful for improving your soil because it adds beneficial microbes and organic matter to the soil. Sweet Peet makes a great compost top dressing.

By following a winter lawn maintenance routine, your lawn is sure to be greener and healthier when spring arrives.

The Season of Sleep

A great season of gardening has come to an end. From sprouting seeds in the early spring, management of pest naturally in the summer months, and harvesting into he fall, gardening should be a year round endeavor. For us gardeners harvest season is a very rewarding time, but to guarantee next year is just as rewarding what you do to your gardens before winter will prepare your garden for plentiful growth and harvest in years to come. Sheet composting is one way to put your gardens to rest and prepare them for the spring. Typically this is done after the first killing frost. Below are step by step instructions to utilize sheet composting in your gardens.

STEP 1.

All diseased plants that have any sort of mildew or parasite that have not already been removed from the garden should be disposed of- NOT composted as this will reintroduce pathogens into the soil. Its important to keep in mind that most parasites and diseases that affect plants initially start in the soil, so try to keep your soil healthy by taking diseased plants immediately out of the garden. Diseased plants will continue to adversely affect your whole garden and quite possibly your neighbors garden as well.

STEP 2. WEEDS

Weeds can be combated in a similar manner as diseases like powdery mildew. However, they are different in that they make good composting material if handled properly. While you do not want to add weeds to your compost bin, you can bury or till them into the soil -along with any other plants still growing in your garden at this time- and then put a layer of newspaper on top of the weed layer. This will prevent weedy seeds from sprouting up in the spring. You can do this during the growing season as well but may find it more suitable to put a layer of straw, instead of newspaper, in the summer.

STEP 3. AMENDMENTS

Fall as well as spring is a good time to supplement your soil with helpful things like manure, zoo doo, already composted material, Sweet Peet, lime, or whatever your particular soil is lacking. These supplements should be added to the “weed” layer and tilled in if possible. Don't worry if you didn't add any of these, the layers of compost are what's most essential.

STEP 4. BROWN LAYER

After you have laid the newspaper over your weed/manure layer its time for a 3-6” layer of dead brown leaves. This is your brown layer.

STEP 5. GREEN LAYER

The great thing about sheet composting your garden in the fall, is that you can do a bunch of composting right on the spot all through the winter so you do not have to move a bunch of already composted material from the bin to your plot in the spring. That said, the next layer you need to put down can be a mix of live green material such as left over plants in your plot (but not weeds), or fresh grass clippings, and kitchen scraps a.k.a. raw compost. Just lay all your slop right on top of the leaves with some grass if you can get it.

STEP 6. Brown, green, brown, green, brown,...STRAW.

You may stop here with the layering of the layers but if you have the material or desire, just continue to alternate brown and green layers to your satisfaction. When you are finished put on the final layer of straw, straw not hay. Everyone should have an adequate amount of straw on their plot for this already but if you purchase more be sure of what you are buying. Hay is full of seeds and you may find your self will a plot full of it come summer. The straw is important because it helps keep the temperature up in all the layers and keeps the composting process moving in time for spring. You may place some cardboard on top of this layer to keep things extra toasty.

YOU ARE DONE!

See below for a diagram of the layers...

Cardboard/Straw